A first look at surfing a monster bomb cyclone

From the Outer Banks to New England, a curious handful braved subfreezing temperatures for epic surf.

This story originally appeared on SURFER and has been republished with permission. For more stories, visit SURFER.

surfing a bomb cyclone
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb
surfing a cyclone bomb

This story originally appeared on SURFER. Words by Pete Taras.

Right now, the entire East Coast is witnessing history. A rare bomb cyclone, or "bombogenesis," is pounding the Northeast with wind, snow, and dangerously cold conditions. That didn't stop a crew in the Outer Banks and New Jersey from taking a crack at the action.

“Today was surreal," said Oliver Kurtz. "It was my first time driving to the beach during a blizzard. It’s wild to see the beaches in Cape Hatteras covered in snow when just a couple months ago I was here wearing boardies. The swell ended up being three times bigger than expected. We all struggled pretty hard because of the raw energy, strong winds and snow, but there were some pretty special moments to be had. All the boys had smiles from ear to ear."

Brett Barley had this to say about paddling out on the Outer Banks: "It was firing but the paddle out was so hard. We were all getting denied over and over. You’d have to wait 20 minutes just for a break in the sets to try and get out. I’ve never seen the paddle out that hard on a day like this. Maybe it was the way the sandbar is setup. The paddle out was just unusually difficult. Scoring days like today here is tough... the waves can be pumping and you’ll literally never find yourself in the spot for 'em. Not one of us even got to be near the best waves coming in today. If someone was, the clip would be going viral right now [laughs]."

Sam Hammer added this: "The conditions were crazy with the amount of snow and wind. Gusts were around 45 mph when I was surfing and temperatures were dropping into single digits with the wind chill, but the tubes and temptation was just too great. Anytime you're with friends getting good surf, it feels a whole lot warmer."

Between the Outer Banks and New Jersey, only a handful of waves were successfully ridden on Thursday. With conditions cleaning up, and local crews from New England to North Carolina ready to suit up and give it another crack, we should see plenty of more tubes up and down the East Coast. Stay tuned.

More from SURFER

Your essential guide to preparing for a cold-water surf trip

Words of wisdom from Kauai big-wave surfer Keala Kennelly

Tyler Wright on winning her second World Championship Tour Title