This slab wave in Oregon is not to be taken lightly. It may look truly beautiful at times, but that is just the moment you should be terrified — because the one behind that beautiful one is going to look like death in wave-form.
There’s sharks, there’s freezing water and a shallow bottom that is ready to tear your limbs off. Surfer Jeremy Rasmussen comprehends all this, but has had his life so changed by this Pacific Northwest mutant wave that he sacrifices it all.
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