As reported by The Daily Mail.

surfer in danger, dangerous surf, big wave

Photo courtesy The Daily Mail

This is the dramatic moment a daredevil surfer cheated death after becoming trapped in between a stone pier – and a freak 30ft wave.

Terrified Jacob Cockle, 23, almost drowned when the monster wave emerged from nowhere and charged towards him at at a speed of over 40mph.

Frantic Jacob struggled desperately to paddle to safety, but was caught in powerful currents that prevented his escape.

Clinging helplessly to his board, the student was tossed into the air ‘like a rag doll’  when the wave – with an estimated mass of seven tonnes – broke over him.

He was flung into the surf and spent ‘ages’ underwater before finally managing to overcome the currents and paddle back to shore.

Miraculously, Jacob survived the terrifying incident earlier this month at Newlyn, near Penzance in Cornwall, unscathed.

But speaking yesterday from his home in Penzance, Cornwall, Jacob said: ‘I couldn’t believe it.

‘I was stuck by the pier and I saw this huge wave rear up right in front of me. It was just massive and there was no escape.

‘I thought that was it, that I was in way over my head.

‘The wave was so powerful that I was underwater for ages but eventually I managed to swim in to the beach.’

Jacob, a photography student who has been surfing since childhood, added: ‘I’ve been surfing almost all my life but I never thought I’d get into a situation like that.

‘It was terrifying. It’s a real reminder of how nature can throw up a surprise now and again.’

For the full story head to The Daily Mail.