<iframe src=”http://www.epictv.com/player/embed-player/602379″ width=”612″ height=”350″ frameborder=”0″ scrolling=”no”></iframe>"Forget the numbers, forget the dimensions plugged into the machine, go with the eye," John Carper tells GrindTV. "Beauty always has a way of prevailing."
Carper is talking about a 10-foot long surfboard he made for Shane Dorian.
It had been made with love, ridden with courage, destroyed by nature and rebuilt with care. It was also the board that formed the template for the Jaws paddle in revolution.
"For the biggest waves I could paddle on the North Shore, I would use a 9'6" or 9'8", but I told John that I wanted guns around 10'6" for Jaws," Dorian tells GrindTV. "I had a rough thickness and certain width in mind and I wanted a quad. That was about it."
The board took five hours to design. Carper then spent half a day shaping after the board came out of the machine. He then glassed it himself, twice, to gain the weight needed.
"They are a pain to manufacture and I have a sore back from lifting the things. However, once it gets up to speed, the board becomes lively, happy and friendly and all that stuff that makes it a pain-in-the-ass on land, well, that becomes your friend in the ocean. I called them the PBU series — that stands for ‘Pray Before Use,’" Carper laughs.
"I surfed this board at Jaws in the two best days we have had out there late in 2012," recollects Dorian. "I got one wave that at the time was a big and hollow barrel … It also ended up as the cover shot for SURFER. I don't order many of these guns, so when I do it's a big deal."
After surfing that wave, Dorian's leash snapped and the board ended up on the rocks at Jaws.
"It was on the rocks for two and half hours getting pulverized," says Carper. "It had 132 dings. It looked like someone had taken an axe and hammer to it, but there was no structural damage, no breaks, so I knew I could rebuild it. It's just like restoring an 1957 Chevy. It took me a whole summer, but we got it back to the same weight and painted it all the original colors."
"To see it come back to life is amazing," says Shane, "as I have a real emotional attachment to this board."
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