The dozen-or-so big-wave surfers who braved Mavericks on Thursday are consensually claiming that it was one of the biggest rideable days at Mavericks in quite some time. But because the storm was so powerful and came so close to the coast, it didn’t produce favorable conditions for very long.
A narrow window on Thursday morning offered proper winds and allowed for some truly absurd moments. We caught up with filmer Curt Myers of Powerlines Productions about being out there, the footage he got of Lucas Chianca’s wave of the day and more.
What was it like out there yesterday?
It was really heavy. It was really intense. The storm was close to the coast and spun off into Oregon. Generally when they come that close there's a lot of wind, but there was a little window of good wind in the morning where it was surfable. The storm generated huge seas, I think the buoys outside were reading 24-29 feet at 17 seconds. That is giant.
We haven't had one of those swells in awhile. The last swell we filmed like that was in 2001 that day we called “Hundred-Foot Wednesday.” So yesterday we were joking around calling it “70-Foot Thursday.”
So it was pretty massive?
It wasn't stretching the limit though, there were probably a few 70-footers. Definitely some 60-footers. Consistently in the morning there was so much power going on. There's an element of danger there too with a south wind because it pushes people towards the waves. That was a whole other element of danger because the current was sweeping into the bowl. That's why that boat got swamped.
Tell us about this wave from Lucas.
Lucas is absolutely phenomenal. He's an outstanding surfer, definitely the best right now in big waves. Left and right at Mavericks no problem, charging Nazare. Shane Dorian wrote to us about it once I put it on our Instagram story and said, “Wow that was so nuts.” The surf world is recognizing what he did on that wave is outstanding.
How many surfers were out?
Maybe a dozen people were out. My nephew was out and he rode one of the waves yesterday, Michael Joshua. There were only like seven waves ridden yesterday: Nic Von Rupp, Ben Andrews, I think Lucas got three. There was a big one that Ion Banner towed into … 40-60 foot I would call it. It wasn't just the size, it was the thickness. It should've been a tow day really. It would have been an unbelievable tow session. Kudos to the guys paddling, I love it.
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