Rob Wise is one of the most progressive street riders in BMX, but his bike setup is total classic with two pegs and brakes—plus a free coaster. Check out Rob’s signature GT Wise frame with Demolition parts.

Name: Rob Wise
Age: 28
Height: 6′ 2"
Weight: 190 lbs.
Location: Layton, Utah
Sponsors: GT, Demolition, Markit, 5050 BMX

Frame: GT signature Wise 21.25"
Fork: Demolition Elite
Bars: Demolition Rig
Stem: Demolition Aaron Smith signature
Grips: Sample Demolition
Barends: ODI
Headset: Demolition
Clamp: Integrated
Seatpost: Demolition Tripod
Seat: Markit/Demolition colab
Pedals: Demolition Trooper
Cranks: Demolition Rig 165mm
Sprocket: Demolition Mugatu 28-tooth
Chain: Odyssey Keychain
Front Tire: Demolition Rig 2.4"
Front Wheel: Demolition Zero rim with custom Mat Beringer Cobra front hub
Rear Tire: Demolition Rig 2.25"
Rear Wheel: Demolition Zero rim with Rotator freecoaster hub
Pegs: Demolition
Hub guard: BSD
Brake Lever: Odyssey
Brakes: Demolition

When designing this frame, what were same specs or features that are specific to how you ride?
I have a 21.25" top tube with a 14.25" rear end. I like having a longer backend. More leverage for hopping and just feels more stable. I made my head tube taller so I don’t have to run as many spacers for my stem. Gives it a cleaner look, I think.

Describe this bike for us… What makes it your ride…
I try to build my bike as big as possible. I run a top load stem as high as it can go on the forks. Bars are forward to open it up a bit. They are 29 inches wide and 9.25" tall. I run a longer back end and short cranks. I think it feels better for bunny hopping. I have to have to 2.4" tire in the front and a 2.25" in the rear. If I'm riding street I have about 50 lbs of pressure. If I’m riding ramps it’s about 70. My wrists like a little more give in the streets. I’m really picky about hub guards and how they are. That’s why I had Matt Beringer custom make me some for my front hub. I can’t be hanging up on grinds out there. I always drill a hole in my seat post for my brake cable to go through. It doesn’t clank around on the frame that way.

What's the story with your front hub?
Beringer is a very talented machinist and I wanted to put him to the test and see if we could come up with the ultimate grinding machine for a hub. We hung out in his shop for hours coming up with the right design. I didn’t want a flange so I could have hub guards the same diameter as my pegs. That makes it so your peg basically continues all the way to your spokes. Meaning you’re not going to have any bullshit to get hung up on. I pretty much just sat back and watched Matt create this masterpiece. I think the only thing I did was drill the holes for the spokes. It couldn’t have turned out any better. It works flawlessly. I love it. Thanks Matt!

I see that you're not too bashful to show some seatpost…
I’ve never been able to slam my seat. I learned barspins when the seats were a small couch and your post was as high as it could go. Having a small seat with no post I wouldn’t know where to start with throwing the bars without my bike falling out from underneath me. I guess I’m just a little more old fashioned in my bike setup. I’ve gotta be one of the last street riders with brakes, too.

You run a freecoaster, but I don't see you mess with much fakie stuff, so how does it apply more to your riding?
It really helps with backwards grinds. With a cassette I would get a lot of tire grab and it would slow me down. With the coaster it eliminates all of that and make backwards grinds so much better.

Metal pegs are increasingly rare these days, have you ever messed with plastics? Why staying true to metal?
I’ve run plastics, but I’m not a huge fan of them. I like the feel of grinding on metal verse plastic. Although, there are those setups where it’s mandatory to use plastics—in that case I’m all for it. So I’ll just keep a set in my bag just incase.

On a scale of one to ten, ten meaning you love it, how much do you like working on your bike?
Depends on the day. Sometimes I love working on my bike and getting it as dialed as possible. There’s nothing better than jumping on your bike and it’s solid—no rattles, squeaks—nothin'. It sounds like a basketball when you bounce it on the ground. The there are those days I could care less how it is and I just run it. It’s not very often that happens, though.

How long do you typically ride a bike before building a new one? Do you switch out parts as they go? Or just build a whole fresh kit?
I usually switch out parts as they go. I typically like to switch out bars and forks every few months or so. Frames, just depends… Sometimes you can run a frame a year and sometimes you run it a couple months—depending on how nice you are to it.

What are you most particular about on your bike?
Hub guards and brakes! Brakes need to be dialed in along with hub guards. My bike just doesn’t feel like mine when those aren’t dialed in. I have to have custom hub guards all the time. Otherwise my bike just doesn’t grind the same.

Are you willing to experiment with new parts and mix things up, or do you prefer to stick to tried and true?
I used to stick to the tried and true. I decided to get bigger bars and raise my stem one time after riding with Skier Jay. He’s a tall guy like myself and he didn’t look all bent over on his bike like I felt on mine. So I asked what he did and went for it. It made such a huge different. I did just try 165mm cranks randomly because I was at demo and they had some. Threw them on my bike and went for a pedal and just started laughing. They felt like little kid cranks because they were so short. I left them on and now I won’t run anything else. I’ve come a long ways over the years as far as opening up to trying new parts.